Clarks Is ‘Coming Up Roses’
Few shoe brands can claim the ‘iconic’ label with as much confidence as Clarks. In existence for 200 years, the British brand has a global presence thanks to styles like the Wallabee and the Desert Boot. Though the brand has collaborated with different designers, celebrities, and brands in the past, it has never invited a guest creative director to work alongside it – until now. Clarks’ chief marketing and digital officer Tara McRae says that from the very first meeting with the British-Jamaican designer Martine Rose, known for her contemporary streetwear, the feeling was right. “When you know, you know,” says Tara.
The resulting collaboration is one of many yet to come, titled ‘Coming Up Roses’ and it debuted at the most recent Paris Fashion Week Men’s. The collection channels Martine’s unmistakable design sensibility into Clarks’ classic silhouettes to create something that feels like a true amalgamation of the two. In practice this looks like loafers and slingbacks with exaggerated, bulbous proportions in bold shades of lilac and tangerine, and the Torhill boot reimagined in horsehair hide and faux-crocodile textures.
The accompanying advertising campaign took inspiration from Clarks’ past imagery from the ‘80s, bringing it into the 21st century while retaining an appealing and recognisable nostalgic slant. The models – chosen for their unique look – recline in retro bedsits with the beds representing the inherent comfort of wearing Clarks’ shoes.
To find out more about the collaboration and the brand’s plans for the future, LBB’s Zhenya Tsenzharyk caught up with the brand's chief marketing and digital officer, Tara McRae.
LBB> This collaboration marks the first time that Clarks has invited a guest creative director to the fold – how did you arrive at this decision and why was this the right time and opportunity? How did the collaboration with Martine Rose come about and why did you choose her specifically?
Tara> You don’t have the staying power for nearly 200 years without pushing the boundaries, re-inventing yourself, innovating and creating. That was exactly what bringing Martine Rose on board was all about. At Clarks, we have always been about innovation, pushing the boundaries and expanding our community. These values have been at the core of what we do for nearly two centuries and that’s why we always look to work with incredible creators and brands.
Martine was always at the top of our list from the first meeting when I brought up the idea to the team about a guest creative director. Everyone was a big fan and more importantly we knew consumers around the world were inspired by her. Then she had a meeting with us to discuss the idea. I always say, “when you know, you know”. And we all knew from the moment we met Martine; she could have a big impact on the Clarks brand and the organisation as a whole. And she has….
LBB> Martine’s style is very distinct – it’s streetwear through an unmistakably British slant. How does this aesthetic fit in with Clarks?
Tara> We pride ourselves on our rich and vibrant history, as a brand we have been a part of many subcultures throughout our almost 200 years. From the power of the brand in Jamaica, to the rise of the Wallabee on the streets of NYC, to the kids on the playground all over England, to so many more. Clarks is also super unique with an unmistakably British POV. Who better to join as our guest creative director than Martine? She understands the space and brings a fresh perspective to this heritage, having taken inspiration from her Jamaican roots and the love for Clarks, she infuses her designs with modern playful elements that speaks to a new generation of consumer.
LBB> The collection aims to ‘spotlight the ultimate comfort of the subversive’. Can you expand on what this means a little?
Tara> Well, our mission is to empower everyone with the freedom to move comfortably. Comfort in every aspect is important to Clarks. This collection is no different. The collection subtly addresses ‘subversiveness’ and evokes a rebellious feel. Taking classic silhouettes and adding a touch of Martine’s playful aesthetic. The collection emphasises the importance of being comfortable walking in your shoes, but also being comfortable expressing your identity.
LBB> How did Martine use Clarks’ vast shoe archive to create the new designs?
Tara> Martine and her team spent hours and hours in our archive. We have such an expansive archive collection from the past 200 years filled with tens of thousands of shoes, advertising, props, and so much more. You could be in there for days and still not get through it all. Martine and the team were greatly inspired by their visits. She pulled things from the archive to recreate with her own POV for this and future seasons.
LBB> The collection features four core silhouettes – why did you decide on such an edited selection?
Tara> Martine was immediately drawn to three core Clarks timeless styles. We love how she approaches traditional silhouettes and makes them unexpected. Her approach with these three styles was to take the ordinary and make it extraordinary. She also loved how much we focus on comfort in every single aspect of the shoe making process. She wanted to bring that to life visually. She took the three styles and accentuated their comfort with massively cushioned exteriors and the use of bold prints and colours.
The fourth silhouette that Martine chose for the collection is a new silhouette, Torhill, a silhouette which we launched last year and is inspired by our ‘90s archive designs. She wanted to put her own spin on the new style.
LBB> The campaign imagery has an intimate, retro feel. What was the thinking behind shooting the designs in bedsit-like environments?
Tara> The concept was inspired by a Clarks advertisement from 1980 which used a bed to convey the idea of comfort in our shoes. Martine really wanted to play on this archival campaign, adding her own spin. We always look to our archive for inspiration, and Martine was down to explore this and use this approach throughout the campaign, sprinkling elements of retro nostalgia throughout which we love. As Martine’s team said when they shared their approach, “the intimacy and personal quality to the storytelling you can create with a bedroom set, feels more contemporary and inclusive.”
LBB> And when it comes to casting the models, what kind of look were you going for?
Tara> The people that feature in the campaign also continue to embody the values and themes of ‘Coming Up Roses’ and the Martine Rose brand. We are all about community and giving back, as is Martine. She makes a conscious effort to use amazing humans in the campaign that are unique and best showcase the clothing, real and relatable, some even being part of her community of friends and family.
LBB> Does this collaboration mean that we expect to see more in the future?
Tara> Absolutely! This January, during PFW, Martine Rose teased some of our AW24 silhouettes that will hit later this year. We also have big plans with Martine as guest creative director in 2025, for our 200 year anniversary... more to come.
LBB> What’s next on the horizon for Clarks?
Tara> There is so much in the pipeline we cannot wait to introduce to our consumers. ‘Coming Up Roses’ was just the start of 2024. We have a handful of exciting in-line products launching this year and season two of Martine Rose for Clarks will be out this fall. We also have our three-way partnership with Ronnie Fieg and Adidas lighting up the market and the rest of the 8th Street Collection with Ronnie coming this fall. Not to mention some additional world class collaborations sprinkled throughout the year. This run-up period will be the ultimate build up to when we celebrate our heritage and status as a British footwear brand known throughout the world in 2025.
